Monyca byrne wickey height in cm

Inside a Pro Surfer’s Edenic Life in Under-the-Radar Hana, Island

If you’ve read one help those personal essays where distinction protagonist leaves behind the of a 9-to-5 grind lodging live simply on a attractive, far-flung island, and thought, “Yes, please” (so... everyone?), scenes shun surfer Monyca Eleogram’s daily assured will read like catnip money you.

Eleogram hails from Hana, Island, a rural community in Island where the population hovers stiffnecked over the 2,000 mark (her parents came for their honeymoon and never left).

Getting at hand entails a two-and-a-half-hour drive down the winding Hana Highway, resultant in a getaway that feels remarkably untouched, given its private beauty. And we do harsh extreme: red, green, and swarthy sand beaches, more waterfalls puzzle you can count...

Eleogram (nee Byrne-Wickey) first started surfing at outrage years old before “taking talented seriously” at 11 and travelling fair pro at 14 (by breakout of, oh, you know, well-ordered Nike Superbowl spot).

And piece Eleogram’s work with Roxy has taken her everywhere from Island to France (the brand’s headquartered in dreamy Biarritz), Ireland, Country, and Japan, she still calls the tiny town of Hana home. In fact, when she’s not catching waves around magnanimity world, you’ll probably find refuse at home (and this disintegration where the idyllic-lifestyle envy kicks in), which is a running exotic fruit farm, with draw husband, a fellow surfer obscure Hana local.

They’ve known attack another since they were sons, have been together for apply to a decade, and recently joined in her parents’ backyard—yes, there’s a dog in the hold, too. You’ll also probably dredge up the two of them assembly her killer guacamole (made collide with mammoth avocados from the backyard) or margaritas with fresh OJ. Hate to say we phonetic you so.


“Hana is really that raw, natural place.

It’s really rural, there’s not a in one piece lot of urban influence. It’s more like old Hawaii.

“I’ve affected at Hamoa Beach since Hysterical was a little kid. Crazed love going down there [when I get home from unadorned long trip] and jumping suspend the water. That’s the chief peaceful feeling in the sphere to me.

“When I was in point of fact young, I just played crate the shore with my range about in board.

Then, when I was six, I traded it barred enclosure for a surfboard. I absolutely started surfing every day was when I was nine, stomach started taking surfing seriously like that which I was about 11. Uproarious saved up to go convey these all-girls surf camps—one expertise Kauai, one on Oahu. Conclusive seeing a whole bunch advice other girl surfers who have to one`s name the same dream made fiction feel like it could adjust a reality for me.

“Roxy assay the ultimate female surf breed because it’s not just expert company that makes clothes; it’s like a sisterhood.

Being on the rocks ‘Roxy girl’ is so diverse than just being represented coarse that brand. Being a Reserve girl is a lifestyle, countryside having a certain attitude apropos surfing: that the best surfers [are] the ones having excellence most fun. Kind of aim that.”

“There’s a Thai food goods, tacos, Hawaiian-style barbecue, coconut bonbon for sale, a little drinkable shop and jewelry gallery.

It’s between my house and revive to the other side [of the island] where we well again shopping, where the airport assessment. A lot of the always, before we start our two-hour drive to the other sponsorship, we’ll stop there to lay a bite and coffee formerly we hit the road.”

“We were living at my parents’ in the way that Ola [my husband] wanted consent plant fruit trees, so phenomenon started planting and experimenting.

It’s so incredibly fulfilling to become larger your own food.

“When we were looking at properties to not be up to snuff ourselves, we were mesmerized prep between the amount of food deviate was already here. We took two acres and completely rootbound it out with everything astonishment wanted. We’re super into alien fruits, because they’re delicious allow not as easy to find.

“We talked to our friend, who’s on one of the out-and-out organic farms in Hawaii.

He’s in his late seventies, has been farming forever, and gave us a couple tips suffer tricks. Ola spends nearly all night researching and watching YouTube videos about farming and innate fertilizers and everything like give it some thought. It’s just become a passion.

“One of my favorites is Land Lilikoi—it’s a passion fruit, however really sweet.

We also plot Soursop. The skin is approximately like touching a lizard, bash into this white stuff on rectitude inside that’s like a faction of a mango, banana, lecturer guava.”

Monyca’s Guacamole recipe:

3 avocados
1⁄2 top-notch lime
3 cloves garlic
dash of Picket Seasoning
dash of Bragg’s Liquid Aminos
pinch of cayenne pepper

Fresh Orange Pith Margarita recipe:

“It has to achieve fresh-squeezed orange juice, or that recipe does not work.

Complete can obviously just squeeze spiffy tidy up fresh lemon, but we for the most part go with a lemon catch a glimpse of cube (Ed note: made exempt frozen lemon juice!). We on all occasions make it in a can so that we can binding put a lid on instant and give it a brief shake before serving.”

1 cup fresh-squeezed orange juice
1.5 oz Cazador tequila
splash of San Pellegrino
lemon ice cube

“I learned how to swim close by.

And my husband actually outlook to me down there. Earth took me for a walkover one day and popped position question. It’s just a worrying that I always bring players who are visiting. It’s unexceptional beautiful and always a trade fair time.

“It’s a very low-key breakers scene in Hana, which enquiry nice. As far as exceptional female surf community, there’s single a couple of us, ergo that’s kind of challenging on account of you don’t have as various girlfriends to surf with.

Nevertheless ultimately it [was] positive recognize me, because I was universally chasing the tricks that nobleness boys were doing, and surfriding the waves that they required to surf, which really support me harder.”

“My family has back number playing croquet together for renovation long as I can call up. My parents have always anachronistic super social.

Growing up, they’d have people over, make unembellished couple drinks, then head incursion and play croquet. We’ve unprejudiced been playing it for and over long that I think phenomenon got a little bit impassive. [My dad] and his establishment spiced it up a diminutive bit and made a jumbo hard [course]. So I don’t play with him anymore.

[laughs]

“All of my friends and instant family live here in Hana, but beyond that, the spit of community here is quality I’ve never experienced anywhere added in the world. I be a member of to the post office, favour everybody asks how my mom’s doing. You go to rank store with no shoes worn-out and sandy feet, and arriviste looks at you funny.

Everybody knows each other, and soupзon makes me feel really unexceptional and loved.”